The hotel where I am staying is adequate, but lacks those little touches- like being able to turn on the tap in the bathroom basin without thinking it is going to come away from the wall- as just one example. -I won't even talk about the chintzy materials provided....
So, on a walking adventure- I started noticing other guest houses that looked really lovely. It began in a lane way I accidentally strolled down, which was laden with trees, cool and quiet but within cooee of the main drag. One particularly stood out, and I wrote the name down. Then proceeded along writing the names of hotels and guest houses that looked good in case I ever came back here [which I would definitely like to do, and probably before it gets any more touristy than it is right now].
When I came back from my tour yesterday- to Pak Ou Caves, the manager at the hotel remarked about how I would be checking out today! [the 31st] I of course- having looked at my tickets at least 100 times in the past couple of days- finally remembered that I was actually flying out of here on the 1st. The conclusion of this set of circumstances was that I would be basically "homeless" for a night as they informed me that they were full for the next few weeks. [I know, you are by now thinking- what has this got to do with Phousi Hill?] I'm getting there.
To their credit, the hotel owner said he had a friend that ran a guest house up the road and would ring to see if there was a room. Better than that, Tan- the Laotian staff manager- who is a fire cracker- went up on his motor bike and secured a room for me- in the guest house that was first on my list from yesterday. So I am now in a gorgeous-little but workable- Laos Style building with big wooden doors and lots of windows and a big giant Queen sized bed for the night. [sometimes you don't have to be careful what you wish for]. And I am away from the incessantly smoking French people who lived next door to me at my old hotel- YAY!
Now to the point...... [I do eventually get there]
Phousi Hill is in the centre of town - a rather large mound of a hill seemingly emerging from flat ground and rising above the city. I have been nervous about climbing it because I have been sick, but after checking in I decided to tackle it-[actually, I went to the museum, but it had closed for lunch, and the hill was across the street, so why not?] - No, really, Actually, I ran into someone of the street that I met yesterday, and we were chatting and I missed the morning opening hours for the museum.
The first set of stairs were a challenge, but then the steps started switchbacking up the hill and most of the climb was really gradual and almost flat. I made it in no time. And the view was worth it- doncha think?
| Switch-back steps on the way up the hill [and down too] |
| Luang Prabang from Phousi Hill |
| One section of stairs to the top of the Hill |
See what I mean about ironies?
[No photos of this though- couldn't bring myself to do it]
We never made it to the top because of my feet and legs not allowing me to do so. Maybe after my op this year I will be able to see the sunset.
ReplyDeleteOur way of visiting Luangprabang is go in the shoulder season like October or February, book a place on the internet for a few nights the scan where we would like to say and find a place in our price range which is under $50 dle incl. breakfast. We prefer near one of the rivers with a balcony overlooking, cable tv, good quiet air conditioning and nice people. Our favourite so far is Alounsovath Guest House on the Mekong. Off season is from $30 dble with view of river. Real off season when no tourists are there would be cheaper still. But then you would have to cope with weather ( hot & hotter ) or heavy smoke from burning the rice fields in the mountains
( end Feb it starts). Sticky rice isn't grown in the wet like normal rice, they slash and burn for it.
Cheaper Lao guest houses have serious plumbing problems, like the bathroom is a flood scene, everything gets wet. I would check this out. Also check how hard the bed is, tends to cause aching hips if bed is rock-like.
OK, just a few tips. Ask for air conditioning to be turned on to see if it works properly or is noisy like rattling sort of sounds that drive me crazy
Hi Genie
ReplyDeleteHave been enjoying vicarious fingertip travel via your illuminative literations. Isn't Laos wonderful - you summed it up beautifully. Luang Prabang is my idea of a holiday, hot weather, warm people, cold Lao beer. Loved the story of your homestay, its true the poorer the people the more generous, a westerners lesson.
Happy new year
Alex
Thanks for the blog ...you are an excellent raconteur and your sensitivity to the place and people you are with makes for great reading.Travel safely home...and happy new year!
ReplyDeleteKathie XO
Thanks for putting your time into making this blog. Really loved the pictures and really loved the detail you included with it.
ReplyDelete